how gorgeous the ‘O’ collection of Maison Martin Margiela is, really.
Amongst his series of collections ‘O’ is the name of a very special one, Artisanal, based on the reworking of clothes and garments into something new. The house has been gathering old and new clothes and accessories from all over the world and these garments may be given a second life while respecting and maintaining the traces of the passage of time and use remains one of the keystones of the creative expression of the Maison.
Each piece is reworked entirely by hand in the atelier and the individuality of the materials used ensures that each one is as unique as the original pieces from which it was created.
two ball gowns from the 1950’s are horizontally re-shaped. the bustier of both are shifted, then sewn together to morph into a new bustier with a tulle train. A leather pants is perforated by hand. Empty dots are filled here and there with different kinds of recycled leather.
Dress:41 hours/ Pants: 34 hours
three cocktail dresses from the 1980’s are dismantled and gathered into an evening jacket. the first gown becomes an extra long sleeve. The second one hugs half of the bust to finish into a voluminous shoulder. The third one creates a ruffle sleeve. A pyjama pants is made of strings of black pearls.
Jacket: 45 hours/ Pants: 35 hours
A vintage dress from the 1950’s made of lace, voile and tulle is shifted to become a one-sleeve body. The bustier and both straps of the dress are hugging the body while the full skirt is turned into a big sleeve of ruffles.
A long ball gown is reworked upside-down into a mini dress. The bustier in taffetas becomes a pleated mini skirt. The petticoat becomes an asymmetrical draped top. The skirt in “plumetis” tulle becomes a veil. A cage-sleeve of velvet ribbon is embroidered with pearls, crystals and recycled jewels.
Dress: 37 hours/ Cage-sleeve: 18 hours
a vintage beaded satin waistcoat is partially embroidered with pearls. it is worn with silk satin pants which front is entirely hand-embroidered to create the texture of a mother-of-pearl dégradé.
Photo: Nathalie Sanchez, Paris
Gloire Carton- Monochrome