Category Archives: fashion week

The conceptual couture of Viktor & Rolf

 

With their 20th Anniversary, Viktor&Rolf return to Haute Couture after a 13-year absence:

“We chose to celebrate our 20th anniversary by looking forward and creating something new – a Haute Couture show as tribute to our collective brand’s history.  For us, Haute Couture is like a laboratory for experimentation and pure creation, and a place to where we always wanted to return.  Having been in a meditative, reflective mood – we  visualized this by creating 20 conceptual outfits that – when combined on stage – create one new piece: a tableau vivant of a Zen Garden.  We felt this was a beautiful symbol of mindfulness, serenity and gratitude”, said Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren.

© PETER STIGTER haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris

The 20 looks are executed entirely in a black, technical silk and manipulated in various ways to create the effect of a stone-surface.  Every girl in the tableau vivant takes on a different pose and each piece is designed specifically for this posture. This conceptual approach to pattern cutting and designing results, when standing straight, in new volumes and drapes. Extra-large zippers rendered in metal are the only visible, functional accessories on the garments: all closures are executed with magnets.  Key pieces in the collection are comprised of articulately hand-crafted miniature piping, made to resemble stylized grass. This labour intensive technique is used as an embroidery, partially or entirely covering garments. All looks are paired with flat, roped sandals, also in the same fabric as the garments.

 
© PETER STIGTER<br />
haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris© PETER STIGTER haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris © PETER STIGTER<br />
haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris© PETER STIGTER<br />
haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris© PETER STIGTER haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris © PETER STIGTER haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris© PETER STIGTER<br />
haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris © PETER STIGTER haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris © PETER STIGTER haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris © PETER STIGTER haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris © PETER STIGTER<br />
haute couture Viktor & Rolf in Paris

 

At Lanvin – Shoes and Accessories

Following the first post of my visit at Lanvin headquarters, here comes the second part that includes almost all the accessories from the Lanvin Summer 2013 collection. Python pumps in metallics, gorgeous shoulder bags and tiny minaudieres and the famous Lanvin crystal jewels. Knock yourselves out.
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At Lanvin Headquarters

I have been waiting for a while to present you this.

During last fashion week in Paris, I was invited to the headquarters of Lanvin House, for a private view of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, after the fashion show. A huge fan of Alber Elbaz myself, I could never miss such an appointment.
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The gorgeous Lanvin silk fabrics looked absolutely amazing in the famous bright colors that the house uses, such as pomegranate pink and emerald green. Some high-tech additions, like the digital prints of naked female bodies that seem to move with you, creating the illusion of nudeness. Much less embroidery, apart from four or five pieces and some details on the dresses. Bodysuits: *swoon*. BUT. The greatest highlight of them all -maybe because I’m too much of a sharp-suit type myself: the tuxedos. Inspired by far east, Japanese tradition and origamis, Elbaz created the perfect, slightly deconstructed suit, with quiet bows and cropped jackets, some of them even sleeveless, combined with his popular it-piece: the silk shirt.

A down to earth collection, deprived of any trace of unnecessary extravaganza.

A post with the accessories of the collection to follow pretty soon.


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